Though Pizzalina opened in September, owner had been preparing for the big day for a long time,nike roshe run uk.
She earned her pizzaiolo certification from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana in 2010, and honed her pizza-making skills at Pizzeria Picco in Larkspur and Rosso in Santa Rosa. After three years of looking for locations, she finally found one last March, in a back elbow of the in San Anselmo.
So perhaps I should feel badly that it took my companion and me just 15 minutes to polish off our pizza, crisp-crusted,20 am local time Friday, blistered, and soft in the middle, scattered with chunky tomato, Hobb's pepperoni, house-made mozzarella and sausage, and the slightest dusting of fennel pollen ($17).
Yet what's coming out of Franz's Mugnaini wood-fired oven is delicious, and we made short work of another pie, too, one called Roy's - tomato, mozzarella, black kale and slivers of fresh, sharp garlic glistening in olive oil ($18), with our own add-ons of farm egg ($2) and pancetta ($4).
This, after we started with an excellent skillet of oven-roasted pears ($12), the skin charred from the oven and the firm fruit nested atop arugula and endive, dotted with burrata and curls of prosciutto in a drizzle of balsamic.
Seeing our empty plates, our server asked what we thought of the crust,nike air max red, noting that it's a natural yeast recipe with a touch of sourdough that takes four days to proof, giving it flavor and chewiness. I love the irony that the restaurant has taken over the space of a Round Table Pizza.
With just four dozen seats (a patio should be ready by mid-April),air max 90 sale, Franz keeps the offerings simple, adding a few pastas, charcuterie and salads, and openly crediting Pizzeria Picco for her inspiration.
Though such rustic Italian cuisine is widely available these days, I'll never tire of it when it's done as reliably as it is here, with daily specials that one evening featured roasted dorade on a bed of roasted fennel, draped in bright red lacings of sweet peperonata ($18). The salumi platter ($12) changes frequently, from standards like sopressata, prosciutto,nike big high, coppa and genoa, to the more unusual wild boar.
A big part of the appeal is Franz's ingredients,nike lunarglide 4 uk. Boutique purveyors change with season and supply, but diners can expect pork from Split Rail Farm in Penngrove, mozzarella di bufala from the water buffalos of Ramini Mozzarella in Tomales, and olive oil from DaVero of Healdsburg.
The constantly changing "del giorno" pizza toppings mean more reason to return often; I've had walnut-arugula pesto, butternut squash, sausage and garlic ($16), plus smoked ham, shaved Brussels sprouts, Calabrian chile, roasted red peppers, garlic, Crescenza, mozzarella and Parmesan ($16).
If rabbit is available, order it - it comes from Nicasio's Devil's Gulch Ranch and is in a rich and soothing sugo over thick noodles ($14) or mixed in as a pizza topping.
On occasion, however, the flavors get too busy. Lansdale pie ($16) is a mosaic of fig confit, pancetta, caramelized onions and Point Reyes blue cheese that was thrown off by sharp, overpowering rosemary on one visit,injuring nearly two dozen people. At another meal, it was difficult to appreciate the simple goodness of mushrooms in a Baltimore Park pizza ($16) because they were obscured by heavily applied Crescenza cream, roast garlic, scallions and truffle oil.
Other times, there is a sense of sameness. Mussels swim in a broth of garlic, fennel and Calabrian chiles, wafting aromas of white wine, butter and thyme ($14). Risotto brings a mix of wood-roasted butternut squash, sage and fried garlic ($12). They're well-crafted dishes, but don't offer profiles much different than the pizza.
Dessert is simple stuff, too, such as Three Twins ice cream splashed in olive oil and sea salt ($5) or dense-crumbed gluten-free olive oil cake spiked with rosemary ($6).
Yet the menu is still evolving. Running the daily kitchen is chef , formerly of Nick's Cove and Yankee Pier. He replaced chef Robbie Star in December (formerly of Boca Pizzeria in Novato and Corte Madera), who replaced opening chef (Santi and Sweet T's in Santa Rosa).
The decor is a solid win, embracing European-style industrial comfort as upscale touches of coppery-chocolate damask fabric on the banquettes play against washed gold-painted concrete walls, lots of wood slats and dangling exposed-bulb lamps. It's a great place for a glass of wine, drawn from more than a half dozen California choices on tap and a few Italian and Spanish labels. Plenty of microbrews can be spotted on tables, along with beers like Peroni Nastro Azzurro Vigevano Lager from Italy ($5).
Sit at the eight-seat bar close to the oven and you can hear the crackling flames. Take a tall stool at the communal table or sit at a regular table to see antique pizza paddles used as wall hangings and a chalkboard wall listing the daily specials.
Throughout, it's easy to feel Franz's love.
Pizzalina
914 Sir Blvd. (near Sunny Hills Drive, in the Red Hill Shopping Center), San Anselmo; (415) 256-9780. pizzalina.com. Lunch and dinner 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday,air max 1 uk, until 10 p.m,Separately. Friday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Credit cards accepted. Free parking lot.
OverallRating: TWO AND A HALF STARSAtmosphereRating: TWO AND A HALF STARSFoodRating: TWO AND A HALF STARS Prices$$ServiceRating: TWO AND A HALF STARSNoise RatingNoise Rating: THREE BELLSRATINGS KEY
FOUR STARS = Extraordinary; = Excellent; TWO STARS = Good,kobe 7 uk; = Fair; NO STARS = Poor
$ = Inexpensive: entrees $10 and under; $$ = Moderate: $11-$17; $$$ = Expensive: $18-$24; $$$$ = Very Expensive: more than $25
ONE BELL = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); TWO BELLS = Can talk easily (65-70); THREE BELLS = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); FOUR BELLS = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)
Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit,About 10 years ago in China.
Reviewers: Michael Bauer (M.B.), Nicholas Boer (N.B.), Mandy Erickson (M.E.), Amanda Gold (A.G.), Janny Hu (J.H.), Allen Matthews (A.M.) and Carey Sweet (C,air max 90 sale.S.)
Carey Sweet is a Bay Area freelance writer. E-mail her at , and go to for comprehensive reviews and listings.

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